Growing Soil (Part 5)

Micronutrients

Micronutrients (trace elements) are identified as nutrients essential for plant life and health, but are found in significantly less supply than the macronutrients. Micronutrient deficiencies are more common than you may think, and are often associated with pH abnormalities.

I have found a very good resource discussing NPK, as well as the micronutrients, deficiency symptoms and some basic definitions and functions. However, it is a little out of date naming sodium as a micronutrient as well as omitting nickel and vanadium.

Rather than reinvent the wheel, I have summarized a few of the key components of this website below as well as adding a few of my comments and suggestions at the end. I know, it's a cop out, but hey, this information has been repeated ad nauseam all over the web, as the original research has been completed long before I ever came into this world. Besides, I don't think my one and only subscriber would mind a quick blog post, thanks again Mom.

Boron (B):

Stimulates cell division, flower formation and pollination.

Chlorine (Cl):

Important in photosynthesis, stimulates root growth and aid in water transport.

Copper (Cu):

Stimulated stem development and pigment formation

Iron (Fe):

Stimulates formation of chlorophyll and helps oxidize sugars for energy. Necessary for legume nitrogen fixation and regulates cellular respiration.

Manganese (Mn):

Important in chlorophyll formation.

Molybdenum (Mo):

Nitrogen fixation and use in the plant.

Nickel (Ni):

The newest micronutrient to be recognized as an essential nutrient. Required for conversion of urease to urea, releasing ammonia for plant nitrogen use. Also required for iron absorption, seed production and germination.

Zinc (Zn):

Stimulates stem growth and flower bud formation.

Non-essential (although beneficial) Micronutrients

Vanadium (V):

Partially replaces Molybdenum's function in plants.

Cobolt (Co):

Improves plant growth, water circulation and photosynthesis.

Silicon (Si):

Strengthens the cell wall and important in seed production.

It is my opinion, and based on strong research, that all micronutrient and most macronutrient amendments can be satisfied by the addition of an inch or two inches of good, quality compost each year. I do, however, appreciate that sometimes there is a need for other amendments based on soil quality and nutritional needs of the plants. I have listed below general balanced organic amendments that should cover most, if not all micro and macronutrients for the average gardener.

1. Compost

2. Worm castings

3. Fish emulsion

4. Kelp meal

5. Rock Dust

6. Gypsum

How do I use amendments?

In the fall I start making most of my compost for the spring planting from manures and leaf mulch. I have an endless supply of horse manure and leaves and this is the primary source that I use. I would love to use a more ruminated manure such as cow, but don't have any easily available to me. Furthermore, I do supplement with what chicken manure I save, but with only 10-30 birds at any given time, it certainly isn't enough as I plant roughly 1/2 - 1 acre of garden each year, not including multiple fruit shrubs and about a dozen fruit trees. I do have future plans of raising rabbits, pigs and maybe a cow or goats, but that is not in the near future, at least not in 2021, so I make due with what I have, and more importantly, what's free.

In the spring I start my seeds in a self-made mix of peat moss, worm castings, vermiculite and crushed eggshells. This gives my seedlings a jump start on the season with the only amendment better than compost (castings), calcium to prevent blossom end rot, and the peat moss to make it all a fluffy mix on the acidic side, for which most plants like. I will also add a 1-2 inch layer of compost in my raised beds, or 20-30 gallons per 100 square feet in my ground beds.

During the growing season I spray my plants about every two weeks with a mix of fish emulsion, seaweed emulsion and Epsom salts. This really gives them a boost and finishes off any nutritional needs they may have.

At the end of the growing season, or when any of the beds are not planted with crop, I will incorporate a cover crop. Depending on the time of year, the crop previously planted and future considerations, I generally choose between a legume (clover is my favorite), buckwheat, winter rye, or a general mix if leaving the bed rest for any length of time.

As this "Growing Soil" series wraps up, I will add one more session, Part 6, Cover Crops.

Sources other than embedded into links in the blog body:

Pennsylvania State Extension

http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/pubs/oh34.htm

The Maryland Master Gardener Handbook

The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It (Seymour)

The Vegetable Gardeners Bible (Smith)

The Truth about Garden Remedies (Gilman)

What's Wrong With My Vegetable Garden? (Deardorff & Wadsworth)

What's Wrong With My Fruit Garden? (Deardorff & Wadsworth)

https://www.ghorganics.com/page32.html

http://www.cias.wisc.edu/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/soilorgmtr.pdf